Mixing politics – and especially protest movements – with fashion runs the risk of looking somewhat disingenuous, the idea being that to commercialise and commodify social movements can serve to undermine their message. But – for better or worse – this is something that has been cropping up this season, from the perpetual eco/ethical manifestos of Vivienne Westwood to Chloe Sevigny at Opening Ceremony who was influenced by, among other things, the Occupy movement. There seems something perverse about turning an anti-capitalist movement into high-end fashion, but fashion can and does reflect the social climate and here that is no exception. So finding the 1968 protests in France as the core influence behind the Heohwan Simulation show was not as surprising as it may have been in a season when political and social discord was not so high on the fashion agenda.

Heohwan Simulation, the label set up in 2010 by Korean-born designer Hwan Heo, managed to sidestep any overt politicisation by focusing on editorial spreads and key fashion editors from his chosen year of social unrest. Research consisted of fashion magazines from 1968, which combined with images from the protests formed the basis of collage prints that appeared on silk tops and trousers. Other motifs came through in biker details on jackets rendered in non-traditional fabrics that added a spirit of rebellion, and the repeated oversize funnel neck that felt like a nod to images of Beatniks and existentialists from 1960s Paris. Pierre Cardin’s cocoon shapes were also a central reference for the silhouette, which was updated by the use of velvet patchwork and fur detailing.

Multi-award winner Hwan Heo is clearly interested in the narratives that clothing can construct – this collection is the fourth of the Heohwan Simulation Critique Collection Project, a ten year vision that aims to re-tell stories from fashion and social history each season. With a clean aesthetic that sits well with a contemporary audience, Hwan’s fanbase is growing fast. And with a style doesn’t rely too heavily on direct historic references it will be interesting to see which era he turns his hand to next.

Runway photography: Marc Aitken

Heohwan Simulation

Komakino Fall-Winter 2013-2014 Men’s Collection

Modern and Long Silhouettes. The latest Autumn-Winter 2013-2014 menswear collection by London based label Komakino. Komakino offers streetwear essentials with a touch of punk style and deconstructed tailoring. My favorites are red and black separates, simple bombers, tailored jackets and relaxed trousers.

Photographer: Remi Lamande
Styling: Niklas Bildstein Zaar
Makeup: Karin Westerlund
Hair: Benedicte Cazau-Beyret


Fall 2013 New York RTW Collection 'Dynamic Romance’

Wan dubs the fall/winter 2013 collection ‘Dynamic Romance’ and it proved to be the perfect name for the collection that featured gorgeous jewel tone gowns, chic felt neutral jackets and caramel pleated wool dresses.

Wan says she gained her inspiration for this collection from two Russian greats, Kandinsky and Catherine Palace. The designer beautifully used ox blood reds, sapphire blues and different violet accents to punch up the neutral palette of the beige, gray and metallics. The runway collection’s show stopper included a breathtaking fox fur coat accented with rows of sequins and a chic gold sequined tank jumper.

Son Jung Wan

Cy Choi 2013/14 Automne/Hiver Collection "deux ombres"

Cy Choi

Spring/Summer 2013

The campaign for his latest collection, shared with The Style Examiner and featuring model Yemi, was stylised by Julian Ganio and photographed by Thomas Lohr.

British-based Korean menswear talent and RCA graduate Jaewan Park presented his new season for the first time during London Collections: Men. This season Jaewan paid homage to Rene Margitte, the Belgain surrealist painter known for his witty and thought-provoking work.

Jaewan Park Debut Menswear Spring/Summer 2012

Jaewan graduated from the Royal College of Art in MA Menswear after completing a BA in Fashion Design & Technology at The London College of Fashion. Before relocating to London to pursue a path in fashion Jae studied at the Samsung Art & Design Institute in Seoul, Korea affiliated with the internationally heralded Parsons School of Design in New York. During his time in London he was awarded the Brioni Award for Tailoring and the Albini Shirt Design Second Place Award from the internationally active Italian shirt makersof distinction.

F/W 2013 collection of Byungmun Seo 'Study of the Hidden Recess of Mind'

For this collection, we are looking deeper into the immense shadows of the unconscious. Envisioning a full metamorphosis within the unconscious, we set the inherent dialectic in motion.

This dialectic is resolved by the fusion of the unexpected and inexistent phenomena in the conscious and manifests in a resistance against the traditional and existing perspective of objects. We contemplated this hidden recess of the mind in freedom and ventured to liberate the mind of preconceived ideas, to release all objects from their customary association, and to revitalize the poetic imagery.

And we pursue to develop this imagery into the construction of garment. The construction will be led by a single concept where a new silhouette is created by the spatial mating of both two-dimensional and three-dimensional objects. This also brings an aspect where such playing of shapes in construction refuses our initial perception of them and gives the objects a new meaning.

Byungmun Seo

Designer Kuho Jung usually shows his collection, Hexa by Kuho, in New York—but by making the move to Paris for fall 2012, he’s announcing a new chapter to the life of his line. After all, it is only fitting that he shows his collection, based upon the conflicting emotions of love, in the City of Love itself. Presented in the majestic library of the Lycée Henri VI, the clothes lent themselves to an overwhelmingly intellectual pretext with a hint of romance. One could easily construct a tale of love and betrayal within the shadows of the library—especially aided by the dramatic drapes and folds of the collection.

Spring 2012 RTW Collection 2012 Newyork

Menswear was an obvious influence in the collection, such as the multiple variations of the grey power suit, but Jung incorporated softer touches, too. For example, a multi-layered flouncy long-sleeved shirt that looked more like a reinvented Victorian nightgown. While much of the collection is in shades of brown and grey, two unexpected emerald green coats added a breath of fresh air to the somber looks coming down the runway. Many of the coats must be admired from all angles, as they tied together in the back in artful simplicity. Jung concluded his collection with several grey knitted sweaters with an excess of fringe and knotting. Love is complex, and so is the Hexa by Jung woman.

Hexa by Kuho

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