Siki Im Fall/ Winter 2016 Menswear Ready-To-Wear Collection by designer Siki Im.

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"I love you, New York, but you're bringing me down," singer Anthony Costanzo trilled from Siki Im's runway in quivering falsetto. The song, by LCD Soundsystem, is a cult anthem of dream chasers everywhere, and, arranged here with a forlorn electric guitar, it made for a poignant expression of the conflicted feelings the designer has for the city.

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Backstage before his show, Siki Im seemed sheepish to say his collection drew from the 1970s. "Not my favorite, really, but that's why I thought I should explore it," laughed the designer, grabbing a pair of wool felt trousers. "Boot leg!" he said. "I never had one in my life. It was a huge stretch for me." Aside from the boot legs and a few butterfly collars, Im's take on the decade was more avant-garde, less disco.

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Prison: so hot right now. Designer Siki Im, for one, is currently fascinated by the idea of institutions. More particularly, jail and hospital uniforms, which explains why Alix Lambert's Russian-prison documentary The Mark of Cain was a main source of information for the designer's Spring collection. "It's a pretty intense documentary," said Im backstage at his Monday runway show, which took place in an indoor parking lot. (Range Rovers and BMWs lined the grit-covered brick walls.)

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When Siki Im revisited Italo Calvino's If on a Winter's Night a Traveler for the first time since his days as an architecture student, it struck him that the pomo masterwork was ripe for reinterpretation into clothes. Calvino even wrote paragraph-long outfit descriptions into the book—as ideal a prescription for an intellectual menswear collection as ever there was.

German-born designer Siki Im trained as an architect before switching disciplines to fashion, working under Karl Lagerfeld and as head designer at Helmut Lang until launching his namesake line in 2009. Bringing a fully realized conceptual depth and backstory to each collection, Im specializes in structured, minimalist Western tailoring with an intellectual bent.

Siki Im


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Hwan Heo has a thing for history. And not always the happier moments—his collection for Spring, entitled “The Wall,” was inspired by the Great Depression, and his new offering takes cues from both the fall of the Berlin Wall and Wolfgang Tillmans’s images of cyberpunk bands of the era.

Which isn’t to say that all this attention the past means that Heo isn’t forward-thinking. “The next 10 collections will be looking to explore new territory,” declared the designer via a written statement, “focusing on fashion tribes looking into the future, leaving fashion history behind with The wall.” And so his Fall collection, much like the breaking down of the Berlin Wall, was a culmination of sorts.

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It all came together in a long, lean, and vaguely retro silhouette meant to signify the cultural clash of Eastern and Western cultures, with graffiti and the German flag translated into tonally related neoprene, denim, and faux fur adorned with the occasional stripe or ruffled trim. These are clothes meant for kicking around in your urban locale rather than punk protests,

but that’s not to their detriment. Where things worked best was in the outerwear, which was well tailored and easy to imagine in a contemporary wardrobe, whether it was the clever takes on the ubiquitous bomber; the narrow black vinyl jackets; or the longer woolen toppers in an acidic verdant shade, cinched at the waist with a navy faux-fur accent that turned up on other looks as a collar or cuff. As for the future, we’ll all just have to wait and see.

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HEOHWAN SIMULATION is a London-based Womenswear label established by Korean-born designer Hwan Heo. Royal College of Arts (RCA) graduate, Hwan Heo created the brand’s vision for the next 10 years is to showcase “The Critique Collection Project” where the theme for each collection stems from Hwan’s experimental artwork and geopolitical aestheticism. Studying the fashion hisory and phenomenon from 1920 to 1990s and observing contemporary fashion, Hwan develops and rebuilds his own fashion statement.

Heohwan Simulation

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Fall 2017

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Fall 2016

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Spring 2016

J. JS LEE is by Jackie JS LEE who was born in Seoul Korea and she came to London to take the Post Graduate Pattern Course at Central Saint Martin in 2007. And after her two years of working as a pattern cutter at Kisa London she came back to study at Central Saint Martin for her MA degree.

Her MA Graduation Collection in 2010 received much positive press and buyer attention, and also was rewarded the revered Harrods Award; with her collection being house in the window of the Knightsbridge Department Store. In March she launched her eponymous label, J JS LEE featuring sleek and chic androgynous pieces in tailoring. Her vision for creating a label which defines a modern woman who is concerned with looking sharp in a uniquely feminine way has been given a platform to launch itself.


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