HEOHWAN SIMULATION 16 F/W FILM _ the Wall

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Hwan Heo has a thing for history. And not always the happier moments—his collection for Spring, entitled “The Wall,” was inspired by the Great Depression, and his new offering takes cues from both the fall of the Berlin Wall and Wolfgang Tillmans’s images of cyberpunk bands of the era.

Which isn’t to say that all this attention the past means that Heo isn’t forward-thinking. “The next 10 collections will be looking to explore new territory,” declared the designer via a written statement, “focusing on fashion tribes looking into the future, leaving fashion history behind with The wall.” And so his Fall collection, much like the breaking down of the Berlin Wall, was a culmination of sorts.

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It all came together in a long, lean, and vaguely retro silhouette meant to signify the cultural clash of Eastern and Western cultures, with graffiti and the German flag translated into tonally related neoprene, denim, and faux fur adorned with the occasional stripe or ruffled trim. These are clothes meant for kicking around in your urban locale rather than punk protests,

but that’s not to their detriment. Where things worked best was in the outerwear, which was well tailored and easy to imagine in a contemporary wardrobe, whether it was the clever takes on the ubiquitous bomber; the narrow black vinyl jackets; or the longer woolen toppers in an acidic verdant shade, cinched at the waist with a navy faux-fur accent that turned up on other looks as a collar or cuff. As for the future, we’ll all just have to wait and see.

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HEOHWAN SIMULATION is a London-based Womenswear label established by Korean-born designer Hwan Heo. Royal College of Arts (RCA) graduate, Hwan Heo created the brand’s vision for the next 10 years is to showcase “The Critique Collection Project” where the theme for each collection stems from Hwan’s experimental artwork and geopolitical aestheticism. Studying the fashion hisory and phenomenon from 1920 to 1990s and observing contemporary fashion, Hwan develops and rebuilds his own fashion statement.

Heohwan Simulation

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Fall 2017

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Fall 2016

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Spring 2016

J. JS LEE is by Jackie JS LEE who was born in Seoul Korea and she came to London to take the Post Graduate Pattern Course at Central Saint Martin in 2007. And after her two years of working as a pattern cutter at Kisa London she came back to study at Central Saint Martin for her MA degree.

Her MA Graduation Collection in 2010 received much positive press and buyer attention, and also was rewarded the revered Harrods Award; with her collection being house in the window of the Knightsbridge Department Store. In March she launched her eponymous label, J JS LEE featuring sleek and chic androgynous pieces in tailoring. Her vision for creating a label which defines a modern woman who is concerned with looking sharp in a uniquely feminine way has been given a platform to launch itself.

J. JS LEE

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ROBES VARIATION VII - i

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ROBES VARIATION VII - ii

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ROBES VARIATION VII - iii

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ROBES VARIATION VII - iv

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ROBES VARIATION VII - v

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ROBES VARIATION VII - vi

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ROBES VARIATION VII - vii

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ROBES VARIATION VII - viii

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ROBES VARIATION VII - ix

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ROBES VARIATION VII - x

saena_robesExhibition - ROBES Variation VII - - ÉTÉ 2016 -

30.06. - 20.08.2016, Leipziger Pl. 3, 10117 Berlin

The seventh collection “Robes/ Variation VII” of the Korean designer Saena Chun originates in her interest in traditional Korean clothing. It focuses on three elements which are characteristic for the traditional Korean dress hanbok: the material, the cut and the way of fabrication. Her designs are characterized by high quality materials, simple, but aesthetic cuts, transparence and elaborate craftsmanship.

The German photographer Torben Geeck made a photo series of Saenas ten robes will be shown during the exhibition. Also, a video will be displayed which depicts the production process and the movements of the robes through silhouettes (artistic performance: Peter Kisur (Honey-Suckle Company) and Chiaki Fujii/ camera: Alexander Georghiu/ cut: Peter Scholl/ sound: Jens Bogedain). About the designer:

Saena Chun studied at the prestigious French fashion school ESMOD Paris with a focus on “prêt-a-porter de femme”. In Paris, she worked for Sonia Rykiel and Chloé. In 2009, she founded her design studio “saena” in Berlin. In the past, she presented her collections regularly at fashion weeks in Paris, Seoul, Berlin and Singapore.

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