Siki Im Fall/ Winter 2016 Menswear Ready-To-Wear Collection by designer Siki Im.

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"I love you, New York, but you're bringing me down," singer Anthony Costanzo trilled from Siki Im's runway in quivering falsetto. The song, by LCD Soundsystem, is a cult anthem of dream chasers everywhere, and, arranged here with a forlorn electric guitar, it made for a poignant expression of the conflicted feelings the designer has for the city.

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Backstage before his show, Siki Im seemed sheepish to say his collection drew from the 1970s. "Not my favorite, really, but that's why I thought I should explore it," laughed the designer, grabbing a pair of wool felt trousers. "Boot leg!" he said. "I never had one in my life. It was a huge stretch for me." Aside from the boot legs and a few butterfly collars, Im's take on the decade was more avant-garde, less disco.

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Prison: so hot right now. Designer Siki Im, for one, is currently fascinated by the idea of institutions. More particularly, jail and hospital uniforms, which explains why Alix Lambert's Russian-prison documentary The Mark of Cain was a main source of information for the designer's Spring collection. "It's a pretty intense documentary," said Im backstage at his Monday runway show, which took place in an indoor parking lot. (Range Rovers and BMWs lined the grit-covered brick walls.)

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When Siki Im revisited Italo Calvino's If on a Winter's Night a Traveler for the first time since his days as an architecture student, it struck him that the pomo masterwork was ripe for reinterpretation into clothes. Calvino even wrote paragraph-long outfit descriptions into the book—as ideal a prescription for an intellectual menswear collection as ever there was.

German-born designer Siki Im trained as an architect before switching disciplines to fashion, working under Karl Lagerfeld and as head designer at Helmut Lang until launching his namesake line in 2009. Bringing a fully realized conceptual depth and backstory to each collection, Im specializes in structured, minimalist Western tailoring with an intellectual bent.

Siki Im

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