Spring/Summer 2013 Ready-To-Wear Photo By Simon Armstrong

AS winner of the prestigious Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award, this season was Heohwan Simulation's time to shine. Established by Korean-born Hwan Heo just two years ago in 2010, the confidence and attention to detail in every look was impressive for a label in such early stages of infancy.

Currently in the third season of a ten-year vision - where each collection is inspired by Heo’s critical viewpoint of the history of fashion – today’s show was the amalgamation of a good few decades: Sixties shift dresses, Eighties Alaia-like perforated leather panels, and Nineties androgyny by way of oversized silhouettes, dropped shoulders and precision-cut tailoring.



2012 S/S collection

These references were neatly pulled together by what has become something of a trademark – a multitude a textural contrasts. Perspex appliqués and leather panelling paired with floaty silks imbued the collection with depth, and evoked an overall feeling of tough femininity that was certainly the most successful element and lasting impression of the show.

This young label showed today that it is a worthy successor to the likes of William Tempest, Hermione de Paula, and David Koma – all previous winners of the award. We look forward to seeing it develop its identity further as it moves towards its fourth season in February.

Hwan Heo

A/W 2012 collection 'Interpretation of alter ego in unconsciousness'

This collection is indicative of the concept through observation of two different selves of human. One is true self, other is repressed another self of human caused by external pressure in this modern society and this repressed self can be expressed through unconscious. In this unconscious, there seems to be no rules, moralities set by the society and are the only place were the repressed human’s desire can convey itself.



And the energy of these repressed desires are coming into ‘substitute activities’ such as dreams and parapraxis, which are expressed in the unconscious. And these energies could also be transmitted into creative activities. As a result, these creative activities can be metaphor of human’s true desire. With this in mind, this collection was derived from these creative activities to find another self of pattern cutting and the concept of this collection can be seen in two methodologies.



one is 'Alter ego of pattern cutting' to replace garment patterns into the place which is not supposed to belong to them and other one is 'Imaginarium of pattern cutting' to show juxtaposition of unfamiliar and unexpected meeting of garment patterns. these concepts create new silhouette and also give new meanings to garment pattern.



The Korean designer, Byungmun Seo was born in Seoul and after working for menswear brand 'Series' of Fnc Kolon, He moved to London where he attended London college of fashion for his Master.

His collections encapsulate a measured study of pattern cutting and a mixture of textures in the mood of darkness and also his work is harmoniously characterized by a poetic mentality with a juxtaposition of rough and refined silhouette to show multiple expressions of his identity. Byungmun Seo is always obsessive about depicting human's nature creating a story and then interpret the story in his work. It is to derive a new concept from the interpretation and apply it to the development of design.

Byung mun Seo

Spectrum 2013 s.s collection, Cy Choi x Roberu , Hand Made in Japan



Named ‘Spectrum’, the collection explores how colours are produced when light passes through a glass prism or a drop of water. To this end, Cy Choi investigated the dualities found in this physical process and how it applied to artistic creativity: when light is generated, one observes an initial stage of Collision and Resistance (as light passes through a prism it collides with the physicality of the prism itself, thus encountering resistance) followed by a stage of Refraction and Diffusion (the result of the collision and resistance between light and prism that ultimately synthesises and resolves the duality of forms), leading to the creation of Rainbow and Invisible Rays (colours that are recognised by the human eye and infrared and ultraviolet lights that are invisible to our naked eyes).



Cy Choi x Roberu_Tote & I pad bag, Sandals
Cy Choi x S.L.M_Loffer



Paris based designer brand Cy Choi has collaborated with Japanese leather goods makers Roberu on a range of accessories for Spring/Summer 2013. Complementing the main line by Cy Choi for next season, Roberu produced leather bags in a variety of silhouettes and colors. Our favorite piece is for sure the large size tote, which also comes in a great bright yellow colorway.

Cy Choi